Guerlain Cravings

Oh, I just discovered this amazing coffret with a selection of 18 fragrances from Guerlain...

Spicy summer trend

The theme in my last perfume sniffing in Paris was clearly spicy. Un jardin après la mousson, Hermès, is said to be dominated by watermelon but to me the spicy scents of ginger, cloves and pepper are as significant as anything else. Also L'eau de l'eau, Diptyque, is less ozon-like than expected - instead the warm cardemom sweeps you away. As do the scent of chai-tea in Stephanie de Saint-Aignan's Berberiades Extreme.

Wooden scents

This weekend I do fragrances dominated by wooden scents, typically of sandalwood and cedar. Patchouli can also be frequently found in these perfumes. More often male fragances than female .
Egoïste, Chanel (1989)
A male fragance with body and caracter, definitely not for a young guy in jeans, rather something for Donald Trump.
Notes de tête: Mandarine, Bois de Rose, Coriandre
Notes de coeur. Rose Turque, Oeillet, Cannelle
Notes de fond: Santal, Vanille, Ambrette
Fahrenheit, Dior (1988)
This is an old favourite, masculin fragance.
Notes de tête: Aubépine, Chèvrefeuille
Notes de coeur: Bois de santal
Notes de fond: Cèdre, Patchouli
Bois d'Arménie, Guerlain (2006)
A calm, sincere, wooden feminine scent that belongs to the L'Art et la Matiere collection. I prefer this one to the more outgoing Cuir de Beluga.
Notes de tête: Encens, Iris. Poivre
Notes de coeur: Bois de Gaïac, Benjoin, Coriandre
Notes de fond: Baume copahu, Patchouli, Musque blanc

Les Chypres

Taking up on the review of the groups of scents, this weekend I have come to the chypres.
(Remind you there are oriental, chypres, leather, wood, fougère, green, ozon and floral scents.) Fragrances created using a base of bergamo, oakmoss and labdanum. The accord is named after the French word for Cyprus, where the base was inspired. Like the forest after the rain the chypres are often descibed. Once deep, sweat and heavy, nowadays they are more fresh, for instance with some citrus. Boisés, à la base de mousse de chêne, un mélange d’algue et de champignon. "Comme le forêt après la pluie" on décrit souvent les chypres.

Cabochard, Grès (1959)
Boisé, profond, presque lourd, très spéciale, me fait penser à un musée marin, des navires.
Notes de tête: Galbanum d'Iran, Ylang ylang
Notes de coeur: Roses de Bulgarie, Jasmin de Grasse
Notes de fond: Mousse, Vétiver, Musc, Patchouli
Soir de Lune, Sisley (2006)
Boisé mais plus leger. Agrumes, mimosa et miel dirigent mon association vers du thé.
Notes de tête: Agrumes, Coriandre, Piment, Muscade
Notes de coeur: Rose, Mimosa, Pêche
Notes de fond: Mousse, Patchouli, Miel, Musc, Santal
Yvresse, Yves Saint Laurent(1993)
Fleuri boisé, plus fruité par rapport aux autres. Autrefois nommé Champagne, YSL a dû changer le nom. Néanmoins ce parfum reste gaie et pétillant.
Notes de tête: Pêche, Abricot, Anis Etoilée, Cumin
Notes de coeur: Rose, Oeillet, Cannelle, Jasmin
Notes de fond: Vanille, Styrax, Bois de Cèdre, Castoreum

Editions de Parfums

If you are going to Paris you might consider to visit Editions de Parfums. Scent boxes makes it an interesting experience. Before you go there, you can get an individual advice via their web site and e-mail. My personal choice is Musc Ravageur (created by Maurice Roucel).
Sensual and sophisticated. Powerful yet perfectly controlled. Dramatic and mysterious. Musc Ravageur is a grown-up perfume, an uncompromising Oriental, which trumps current fads. Its explosive departure of bergamot, tangerine and cinnamon is set against a lusty backdrop of vanilla, musk and amber. No flowers, just a refined and exalted skin scent.

Oriental scents

The festive winter season is perfect for the oriental scents that are most of the times heavy and more suitable for evening and night rather than work. A large fragrance class, featuring the scents of vanilla and animal scents together with flowers and wood. Frequently enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins.
Shalimar (Guerlain 1925) is the state of the art among oriental perfumes and the only one in the world's top five which is not a floral scent. Shalimar means "Temple of love" and alludes to Taj Mahal in India.
Notes de tête: Citron, Bergamote
Notes de coeur: Jasmin, Rose de Mai, Opopanax, Fève Tonka, Vanille
Notes de fond: Iris, Encens
Angel (Thierry Mugler 1992) is warm, sweet and spicy, caring. It reminds me of a old friend of mines and times we spent together in the mid-nineties. The list of ingredients reminds of an ice cream parlor... Unzipped (Samba 1998) reminds of this perfume, with the base note of chocolate.
Notes de tête: Bergamote, Mandarine
Notes de coeur: Fruit de la passion, Pêche, Abricot
Notes de fond: Patchouli, Vanille, Chocolat, Caramel
Samsara (Guerlain 1989) is a floral-oriental scent that gains over time, I think, and is less heavy than the above, ladylike.
Notes de tête: Bergamote, Citron, Note Verte, Estragon
Notes de coeur: Jasmin, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Oeillet
Notes de fond: Santal, Vanille, Benjoin, Fève Tonka

Sensi et Relaxing Fragance

Hier j'ai testé Sensi d'Armani et Relaxing Fragance de Shiseido.

Les deux sont legers, surtout Relaxing Fragance , qui est très "clean", je me demande si ce n'est pas trop de genre savon....mais le long de la journée il tient bien.
Notes de tête: Concombre, Bambou, Armoise, Galbanum
Notes de coeur: Rose, Cardamome, Pivoine, Gardenia
Notes de fond: Santal, Bois de Cèdre, Mousse de Chêne, Fève Tonka
Quant à Sensi, je l'aime bien pour une journée où on a envie de qch

de paisible.
Notes de tête: Kaffir lime, Accacia farnèse
Notes de coeur: Jasmin, orgeat
Notes de fond: Palissandre, benjoin

Fendi Palazzo

Palazzo (Eau de Parfum) de Fendi est apparu en Septembre 2007, mis au point de Karl Lagerfeld et François Demachy. Floral et boisé, il demande l'attention de tous autour de vous, ce parfum.
Note de tête: Mandarine Jaune, bergamote, citron, poivre rose
Note de coeur: Fleur d’Oranger, jasmin, rose bulgare
Note de fond: Bois de Gaïac, patchouli

Le Flacon de Fendi Palazzo est superbe! Il évoque l'architecture du Palazzo Fendi, boutique emblématique de la marque, située en plein cœur de Rome.

Armani Code for women

Today's perfume Armani Code for women (Eau de Parfum), by Carlos Benaïm, Dominique Ropion and Olivier Polge (2006).

Notes de tête: Orange bigarade, Orange d'Italie
Notes de coeur: Absolu de Fleur d’Oranger, Jasmin Sambac
Notes de fond: Vanille, Miel

Orange Blossom is the Muse of this creation: a miracle of the nature, the quintessence of femininity. A unique creation reveals this flower's full magic and operates its metamorphosis by the incredibly soft embrace of Madagascar vanilla and a touch of honey. Sambac jasmine, from India, amplifies the radiance and elegance of this celebration of noble materials. An unforgettable fragrance that exudes a mysterious charm.

It's like one of those restaurants where it feels like you have eaten already after reading through the menu! The scent is rather heavy, dense. For seductive and glamorous women, hey, it's almost weekend!

Parfum du jour: Rumeur

Aujourd'hui j'ai porté Rumeur de Lanvin (crée de Francis Kurkdjian 2006).

Notes de tête: Magnolia, Roses blanches
Notes de coeur: Jasmin Sambac, Seringat, Fleur d'Oranger, Muguet
Notes de fond: Patchouli, Musc, Ambrox

Premièrement il m'a beaucoup plû - pour une journée d'automne crispée - frais, sophistiqué.
Après quelques heures le muguet domine, un peu trop je trouve, afin sur moi. Encore plus tard le patchouli plutôt agréable.

J'ai aussi testé Eau d'Iparie chez l'Occitane. Originale, assez masculin avec sa fond de myrrhe et encens.
Notes de Tête : Baie Rose, Rose.
Notes de Coeur :Patchouli, Ciste Labdanum.
Notes de Fond : Myrrhe, Encens, Vanille, Mousse.
C'est peut être bizarre mais je pense que l'occasion pour le porter est un enterrement, c'est un parfum solennel.

L'illustration s'appelle Magnolia Swan Lake.

Ahh, Perfume!

Lately I have so much to read and write in my work, so in my spare time there was need for using other senses and since a visit at the Perfume museum of Fragonard in Paris earlier this season I am addicted to testing and learning about Perfumes. My newly awakened track of interest is supported by this Swedish blog - Parfumistans blogg - on perfume. I also found this French Perfume Portal very inspiring. And of course, the perfume shops where I can try on all the new discoveries! Two interesting English speaking sites are News parfums and the blog Now smell this. The wish list for Christmas is taking shape...